We just got back from a lovely trip to Puerto Madryn and vicinity. What? Where? Right here:
So, yes Puerto Madryn is in Patagonia, on the Atlantic Ocean, an about a 16 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires. The bus was actually quite lovely, with nice wide seats that reclined to flat, pillows and blankets included, and decent dinners to boot. All at a third of the price of flying! Albie was fabulous on the bus, he really is a great traveler. It was divine to be on a road trip with someone else doing the driving...
Puerto Madryn and vicinity is home to lots and lots of animals. Chris and I went about 15 years ago, but this time, we decided to go when the whales were in town. We arrived, took a cab to our hotel, and as soon as I got out of the cab I could see whales in the ocean. Blew my mind. And you know, the whole time I was there I just could not believe that people were going about their daily lives as if whales frolicking on your shores is the most natural thing in the world. I figured everything should pause, utter stillness and silliness for the 6 months or so that the whales are there... Also, what a cool way to reckon the passing of time, the passing of the seasons: "The whales are here, the seals are here, the penguins came, the whales left..." I imagine there are some lovely native myths and legends associated with the arrival and departure of these majestic animals.
Peninsula Valdes:
We spent a day on Peninsula Valdes, first to go visit the Elephant Seals, and then to take a boat ride to get a bit closer to the whales (if they should choose to have us.) Elephant Seals are fabulous, enormous creatures, who lumber awkwardly on the shore, but swim divinely out at sea. When we got to the beach where they like to hang, they were all just dozing on the beach, mostly mamas with their babes. A baby started well, whining and yapping at his mama, and then she sort of snaps back at him, all while rolling over to offer her breast. I felt very connected -- like, me too! I've been there! Was there for three years!
And then it was time to see the whales. Let's see, first off, if I went back, I don't think I'd do the boat ride again. Although it was obviously amazing to see the whales that close, it also felt really intrusive and I just felt uncomfortable. Perhaps if I were in a kayak, or a little rubber boat... Also, there's a beach just 15k outside of Puerto Madryn called Playa Doradillo where the whales hang out. During high tide, they are literally just meters away from the coast, and I liked that better. I guess it felt more respectful. There was lots of whale sex going on, and watching from a boat just felt obnoxious.
Patti and Albie J ready for the boat ride:
OK -- before we get to more pics, lets talk about whales, and whale sex specifically. First off, and yeah duh, but whales are amazing. I know some say that yes, whales and dolphins are quite advanced, but not as much as humans. I'm not so sure I buy that. I think they are way beyond us... Just watching them play all day, they just swim, splash, tails in the air like they don't care. Really, it just looks like their purpose is fun, happiness. And whale sex? Get this: There will be one female to three or four males. There is no fighting between the males, none of that competition that seems to normal in the natural kingdom. (We saw some penguins going after each other with rage, fury.) No, whale sex is cooperative sex. It looks like a mess of whale bodies, and the female tries to roll over, onto her back, so that a male can insert his two meter penis. (I had to add that, of course.) The other males, the non inserting males, all then work to help the happy couple copulate. They get under the female, holding her up, just generally being helpful, working to keep the two whales together. They all copulate with her, and in a miracle of evolution, her body keeps the sperm that it deems to be the strongest. She swims away, happy as a, well, as a whale in water, and returns a year later to have her baby. Chris has had to remind me numerous times since our return that I am not a whale. One can only dream...
I don't think I've ever posted a photo of anyone having sex on this blog, and my apologies to the whales, but here they are:
Pure whale joy:
And the lone sea lion, posing:
We spent another day at Punta Tombo, one of the largest penguin colonies in the world. Really, it is a hoot. There are about 1,000,000 penguins that come here, returning every spring to mate and have their babies. Oh yes, more animal sex. But like I said, not quite as enlightened as whale sex... Another beautiful spot on the ocean, and the lunar landscape (due to the penguin nests) is just covered in penguins. And guanacos too, making it feel very South America.
Lots of penguins!
This mama had just laid an egg. The penguin couples seemed to be very sweet with each other. They just didn't like to share.
All in all, it was a wonderful trip. This is a beautiful country, and we are really really really blessed to be having this experience. Thank you.
For more pics, go to: http://www.roachsinger.com/albert/Patagonia.html
After about 9 months in New York, I began dreaming, seeing, thinking, writing all things turtle. I was inspired not only by the slow and steady creed, but also the idea that a turtle´s home was on it´s back. That the turtle mama traveled long long distances to lay her eggs, and then left -- trusting the natural rhythms... For almost 3 years I have called the turtle my totem animal... and now, here in Brazil, I have arrived at Turtle town! We are in Praia do Forte, and there are turtles everywhere. This town is home to Project TAMAR, a rescue group who has helped sea turles come back from the brink of extinction. There´s a big turtle preserve, helping hurt turtles, protected nests everywhere, and of course the requisite sculptures, stuffed animals, tee-shirts, rugs, jewerly... All turtle, all the time. How nice and symbolic for me as I carry my home on back. (Well, not on my back actually -- in the 2 suitcases I brought to BA, but you know, for the sake of the story...) Feeling good to be surrounded by the turtle. I am my home.
